When I first came here, I was warned off walking by a number of people: no one walks, it just isn't done, it isn't safe after dark, it isn't safe for a woman alone. On my first day on the job at the Ministry, a driver was sent to pick me up to ferry me safely to work. It was then that I realized that the Ministry is about 4 blocks from my apartment - about 6 minutes door to door on foot. It is quite literally faster to walk than to drive.
At that point, good sense prevailed over fear. I told the office manager - to his visible dismay - that he didn't need to send the driver every morning, and that I could make it to work under my own steam. I was also fortunate to connect with a couple of ex-pats from Madrid and Quebec City who are also walkers. They helped me get things in perspective and figure out how to get around a bit on foot.
While it has been great to get outside and see the streets, it has also given me pause. First of all, this is a city dominated by drivers and its neighbourhoods are separated and fragmented by so many giant, fast-moving arterial roads. These virtual highways are impossible to cross and unpleasant but often necessary to walk alongside when I need to get somewhere outside of the immediate vicinity.
Second, the pedestrian infrastructure is crazy. Since so few people walk outside of the historic downtown - maybe a few teenage boys, some labourers, and asian maids, who look like they are mostly from Indonesia - the role and concept of the sidewalk is understood differently here. For one, sidewalks are not a public amenity - they seem to be the responsibility of individual property owners. Consequently, their heights and widths vary widely from frontage to frontage. For many property owners, the sidewalk that they are expected to maintain in front of their house - for no clear purpose from their perspective, I suppose - becomes an extended planter or parking pad. I have started to keep photos of the elaborate plantings that homeowners maintain on their sidewalks - here's a few sample pictures. There is an amazing amount of topiary and that stuff takes work to keep up! And, of course, it makes walking on the sidewalk impossible.
So, I wonder, am I wrong to want sidewalks to be pedestrian-friendly ? If I am importing my pedestrian ways to a country and a culture that doesn't share them, is it wrong to think that they should be improved?
Many a foreigner has brought "improvements" to distant lands, only to have them ignored or used in a non-intended manner. It's interesting that sidewalks do, in some form, exist where you are, but people have chosen to decorate them instead of walk on them. This seems a pretty deliberate and careful choice. Very interesting questions you have to ponder! I'm eager to learn the results of all your planning discussions.
ReplyDeleteLove your blog Hannah! I don't think it's at all wrong to expect that sidewalks should be pedestrian-friendly no matter what the country or culture. The other day when I went to an appointment at College and Yonge (busy pedestrian intersection) I had to negotiate around a CTV truck parked completely on the sidewalk. When I came out an hour later it was still in the same spot with the engine still running. Once the public realm has become devalued it's tough to turn around since habits and practices become entrenched and normalized. Sound like this will be especially tough to do in Amman but I believe it's the right thing to do regardless of the culture.
ReplyDeleteThose teenage boys, labourers and maids ain't chopped liver. Sounds like there are a few walkers around besides you who might be in need of allies.
ReplyDeleteOne thing that I didn't really mention in my post is that the few pedestrians that are out there have basically given up on the sidewalks - as have I - and on all but the busiest highways, we all walk on the roads. It is definitely more convenient that dealing with all the height changes and obstacles on the sidewalks. Of course I believe that walking is a good thing to promote - it is a fundamental human activity that totally makes sense - but I do wonder if there will ever be a sustainable transportation advocacy movement here, or if it is only a western indulgence.
ReplyDeleteSometimes the internet is full of great stories and small worlds.
ReplyDeleteFrom December 10-20 a group of Canadian urban planning students from Dalhousie University were studying planning in Jordan.
I recently found your blog through Spacing, and I relate to all of your stories.
The sidewalks are especially humourous. Everytime I'd step foot on a sidewalk, a cab would pull over.
I look forward to your posts, and I can't wait for you to go to Damascus - what a great city.